You know those places you didn’t plan to fall for? But a few hours in, you’re already figuring out how to stay longer? That’s what Pals was like for me.

It’s a small medieval town just a bit inland from the Costa Brava, and honestly, it doesn’t look like much on a map. But in person? It’s calm in a way that’s hard to find these days. You park just outside the old centre, walk up the slope, and suddenly you’re surrounded by stone buildings, curved alleyways, and warm terracotta rooftops that feel like they’ve been there forever… because they basically have!

A stoll through medieval part of pals in spain

Most people come here as a quick detour on their way to the beach. And sure, you could do that. But if you’re the kind of person who likes slow mornings, small places, and not having a packed itinerary with things you must see and do, Pals deserves a full weekend. There’s enough to see, but not so much that you feel like you’re missing out if you spend half the day sitting with a glass of wine in the shade.

It’s so quiet you actually hear yourself walking. No one’s rushing through dinner, and honestly… once you’re here, you’ll probably end up thinking, “Yeah, one night’s not going to be enough”.

It’s also a good base for exploring this quieter corner of Catalonia - especially if you’re planning a road trip through Baix Empordà or just want a break from busier coastal spots. And if you prefer peaceful mornings, long walks, and small towns with good food, you’ll probably feel right at home here.

Let’s take a look around.

Why Pals is one of the easier places to stay on the Costa Brava

Pals sits slightly inland from the Costa Brava, just far enough from the coastline that you don’t get that constant flow of beach traffic. You arrive, park just outside the old town, and walk up into it. From the top, the view opens out over flat farmland, rice fields, and low hills, with the Montgrí massif in the distance. On a clear day, you can trace the line of the sea without actually being in it.

The old town itself is compact. You can walk through it in under an hour if you keep moving. Most people don’t.

There are stone alleys that turn into staircases without warning, archways that lead into small courtyards, and houses that haven’t been “updated” in the way you see in more polished towns along the coast. Some doors are slightly warped, shutters don’t quite line up, plants grow where they’ve found space. It feels maintained, but not staged.

What makes Pals different from a lot of places along the Costa Brava is what surrounds it.

Just outside the village, the land flattens into rice fields. Arròs de Pals has been grown here for centuries, and it still shapes the area. You’ll see it on menus, but you’ll also notice it in smaller ways. Tractors passing through the edge of town. Produce moving in and out. It doesn’t feel separated from the landscape around it.

It’s also a lot quieter than the coastal towns nearby.

You won’t find beach crowds spilling into the streets in the evening. Restaurants don’t turn tables at the same pace. People aren’t rushing between stops. It’s the kind of place where you sit down, order something simple, and stay longer than you planned.

Pals isn’t a destination that fills your day for you.

But if you’re looking for somewhere on the Costa Brava that feels more grounded, where you can walk, eat well, and not think too much about what comes next, it makes a lot of sense.

Sitges is a different kind of coastal stop, but it works surprisingly well if you approach it the right way, especially once you see how to experience it without getting pulled into the usual version of it.

Tarragona is another place that shifts a lot depending on when you go, and it becomes much more enjoyable once you understand how the city feels outside of peak season.

What to do in Pals once you’ve walked the old town

You don’t come to Pals with a long “bucket list”. You probably come because you want a change of pace: to walk without noise, to find the kind of shops where someone still writes prices by hand, and to eat lunch somewhere where the chef isn’t trying to go viral, right? It’s a small town, yes, but if you give it your full attention, there’s more than enough to fill a thoughtful weekend.

Here’s how to do it, your way:

Let yourself wander the medieval centre more than once

Pals isn’t big, but the layout is just crooked enough that you’ll turn the same corner twice and still notice something new. A carved doorway, a painted tile, a cat sleeping in a windowsill you missed the first time. It’s such a pretty town to explore.

You’ll probably start in the main square, Plaça Major (everyone does). From there, just make your way up toward the Torre de les Hores, the old bell tower that sort of keeps an eye on everything. But don’t rush it. Sit on a bench for a bit. Watch people go by. Look up at the balconies. This isn’t one of those places where you need to “see it all.” Just take your time and wander! The slow way down is usually the better one.

And if you’re trying to avoid the obvious destinations altogether, there are plenty of quieter towns across Spain that feel more grounded and less visited.

Visit a local ceramic studio, gallery or artisan shop

Pals is surrounded by a region full of artists, and a few of them quietly sell their work in town - mostly in small workshops or shared spaces tucked between houses. Look for open doors or small wooden signs pointing upstairs. There’s often a mix of functional and decorative pieces: hand-thrown mugs, hand-dyed scarves, prints of the surrounding landscape. And the best part? You usually get to speak to the person who made it.

What you won’t find: anything mass-produced, overly packaged, or made for tourists. This is real local craft, and the makers are often happy to chat if you’re curious.

Support the tiny bookshop (you’ll know it when you see it)

There’s a tiny independent bookshop just off the main square you need to visit! There's no sign outside, just a wooden door and a quiet entrance. Inside, shelves lean slightly, and most of the books are in Catalan or Spanish, but the owner is happy to help you find a local poetry collection or a beautifully printed cookbook to take home. If you’re someone who collects beautiful editions, cookbooks, or just wants to browse somewhere quiet, it’s worth a stop. There are also local guides, small-run photo books, and kids’ books with stunning illustrations. It’s the kind of place you end up staying in longer than expected, even if you don’t buy anything.

Walk through the rice fields - or cycle if you want to go further

Arròs de Pals isn’t just a label. It’s actually the town’s agricultural backbone. If you’re into food culture or sustainable farming, visit the Molí de Pals, a working rice mill just outside town that still uses traditional methods. You can walk or bike from the centre (about 20–30 minutes), and the surrounding fields are beautiful, especially at golden hour.

Want to keep walking? Small trails lead off into the surrounding Empordà countryside where you’ll pass olive groves, vineyards, and the occasional stone farmhouse. Some paths even connect to nearby villages like Peratallada and Palau-sator, both great half-day trips if you want more of this quiet, rural feel.

Sit outside with a glass of vermouth… or three

Just off Carrer Major, there’s a spot with a few tables outside and vines growing up the wall! It kind of looks like someone’s patio, not a business. But if you sit down, someone will bring you a menu: local vermouth, olives, anchovies, maybe a house-made coca (flatbread). No branded umbrellas. No laminated signs. Just a small, relaxed place to sit for an hour and let the day stretch out.

Catch sunset from the edge of the town wall

There’s not really a big “viewpoint” in Pals. It’s more just little spots where the rooftops drop away and you suddenly get a view over the rice fields. If you head toward the back of the town around sunset, you’ll probably come across one. There’s a low wall, a bit of breeze, usually no one else around. No one’s lining up for a photo. It’s just quiet, and the light starts to shift, and you kind of forget what time it is!

Where to eat in Pals (and what’s actually worth ordering)

If you’re someone who prefers a handwritten menu to a neon sign, cold wine over crowded pubs, and small plates that tell you where they came from - then Pals will feel like just the kind of place. Here are three spots I found that match the mood and the quality we look for.

Antic Casino

This one is stunning. Set in a 19th‑century building near the old town’s heart, Antic Casino feels like a place the locals know but visitors appreciate. The focus is on fresh, regional ingredients: rice from the surrounding fields (you know about Arròs de Pals by now), seasonal vegetables, local wines. This is one of our favourite lunch spots in all of Catalonia!

Visit for lunch if you can: early dinner table, menu del día (set lunch) often gives you a chance to eat well for less. The terrace is shaded in summer; in shoulder season it’s just quiet and comfortable.

Es Portal

If you’re up for something a little more refined but still authentic, Es Portal is tucked just outside the main lanes of Pals. It occupies a restored farmhouse from the 16th century with solid rustic charm: stone walls, wooden beams, and a winter hearth (if you go in the cooler months).

The menu leans Catalan‑seasonal: dishes built around what’s local and available right now rather than shortcuts. It’s ideal for a slower evening - arrive early or reserve for after your stroll through the village when you’re ready to unwind.

Cedeira in Spain is one of those places that feels almost too quiet at first, but that’s exactly why spending time there before it becomes more well-known makes sense.

If you’re travelling alone, places like Pals tend to work better than expected, especially once you realise how natural it feels to move at your own pace, which is something you’ll recognise in these small towns in Spain that are particularly easy for solo travel.

Things to note about restaurants in Pals

Many restaurants in Pals source local produce, so menus may change day to day depending on what’s fresh. That means small surprises - not a huge buffet of recycled dishes.
Portions tend to be more relaxed rather than huge tourist‑plates. If you’re very hungry, consider sharing starters and mains.
In the quiet evening hours, especially outside peak summer months, some places close earlier… so check opening hours if you’re planning dinner after exploring late.
If your slow‑travel style includes minimal waste or local sourcing, ask about the rice: Arròs de Pals is a local product with a guaranteed‑origin label.

Lets talk about the Architecture in Pals

Pals is one of those places where the streets feel old. It actually reflects the centuries they’ve seen and it just adds so much character to the city. It’s a small medieval town, yes, but what makes it different is how intact and quietly layered everything is.

The town sits on a low hill overlooking flat, open countryside and the rice fields it’s historically known for. From the top, you can see out towards the sea in one direction, and the Montgrí Massif in the other - and that position wasn’t random. It was defensive, practical. Like much of the architecture here, it was built with intention, not just aesthetics.

The Torre de les Hores (you’ll spot it pretty quickly: it’s the old 12th-century watchtower) is one of the standout features, and it’s worth walking up to just for the view. Nearby, the church of Sant Pere is another good example of how Pals evolved. It has Romanesque bones, a Gothic layout, and a slightly odd Baroque touch that somehow works.

Wandering through the old part of town, you’ll see a mix of archways, vaulted stone ceilings, and doorways with faded inscriptions or carved initials. If you’re into small architectural details, this is the kind of place where it pays to look up and down! Lintels, window frames, ironwork. You’ll see it’s all been lived with, not recreated.

One thing I always notice in places like this: how the buildings match the land. The yellowish stone you see everywhere was sourced locally. Love that! It’s the same tone as the dust on the roads, the same colour the rice fields turn when they dry. That visual consistency makes everything feel grounded - and honestly, more calming to be in.

If you have time, stop by Ca la Pruna, a fortified 16th-century house turned small cultural centre. They sometimes have local exhibits or events, but even if it’s closed, it’s worth walking past to see how the older houses were structured. Thick stone walls, small windows, solid wooden doors. It gives you a good sense of how the people here used to live - and in many ways, still do.

A little tip: walk through the medieval lanes at two different times of day if you can. In the morning, the light is softer and cooler, and it hits the stone in a totally different way than in the late afternoon, when everything turns golden. It sounds small, but it completely changes how the place feels!

Northern Spain in autumn leans even further into that slower pace, especially if you’re curious about villages where the season changes how the whole place feels.

If this trip makes you want to look beyond the usual stops, it’s worth exploring smaller villages across Spain that don’t try to stand out but stay with you anyway.

The kind of places worth staying in Pals

There aren’t loads of hotels in Pals. What you’ll find instead are small, family-run guesthouses, boutique stays, and quiet countryside retreats that make you feel more like a guest than a booking. If you pick right, you’ll start to settle in by your second coffee.

Here are a few options that feel especially right for slow travel, solo trips, or a quiet weekend for two:

Hostal Barris

This is a no-fuss, family-run guesthouse right in the centre of Pals. It's comfortable, well-kept, and walkable to everything in the medieval part of town. Rooms are simple but clean, with tile floors and the kind of functional charm that just works when all you need is a good night’s sleep and a peaceful base. Bonus: they have on-site parking, which is a real plus in this area.

If you're planning on spending most of your time out wandering, reading, or enjoying long meals, this is a solid pick. Ask for a quieter room toward the back if you're sensitive to noise.

Mas Ferran (Adults Only)

A little outside the centre (maybe a 10–15 minute walk) this one is ideal if you’re looking for something peaceful. The vibe here is more grown-up and reflective. It’s the kind of place you check into with a book, a soft scarf, and zero intention of rushing anywhere. Rooms are bigger, and many look out onto the garden.

If you’re someone who needs space to breathe, or you’re travelling solo and want that in-between feeling of privacy and care, this one’s worth looking into. It would suit writers, couples who want to disconnect, or anyone needing a bit of exhale.

Arkhé Hotel Boutique

If you want something with a little more design detail (maybe you care about aesthetics, lighting, breakfast served on handmade ceramics) this is your place. Arkhé is still small and personal, but a bit more curated. The rooms feel thoughtful, and the overall atmosphere is calm and beautifully put-together.

It’s close to the old town but tucked just enough away that you can escape the foot traffic, especially in summer. If you value quiet mornings and good coffee, this one should be on your radar.

A Few Booking Tips

Stay at least two nights. Pals is small, but it opens up slowly. One night and you’ll feel like you’re just arriving. Two or three gives you time to settle.

If you’re driving, double-check where parking is. Some places have it on-site, others are a short walk away - and in the medieval part, the roads aren’t car-friendly.

Don’t overdo the stars. In a place like Pals, you’re better off going for character over rating. The best stays here are warm, personal, and quiet… not necessarily “luxury.”

Cadaqués has a completely different feel from Pals, but if you time it right, it works in a similar way, especially when you see how a weekend there unfolds when you follow the market rather than a plan.

Once you start noticing how different markets can feel from place to place, it’s hard not to keep going, particularly if you look into the quieter markets in Spain that are actually enjoyable to spend time in

How to Get to Pals

By train
The closest major station is Girona, which is well connected by train from Barcelona and Figueres. From Girona, you’ll need to take a regional bus or rent a car to reach Pals - it’s about a 45–50 minute drive.

By car
Driving is the easiest way to get here, especially if you’re planning to explore the surrounding area. From Barcelona, it’s about 90 minutes by car. Roads are in good condition, and the final stretch through the Empordà countryside is scenic and calm.

Parking
The old town is pedestrian-only, but there are several small parking lots just outside the centre. Park there and walk in - it’s a short, pleasant stroll and a nice transition into the town’s slower pace.

If you head further north, towns like Santillana del Mar show a different side of Spain again, and it becomes clearer when you see what a summer there actually feels like once you move past the surface.

Where to go next: Daytrips near Pals

If you’ve got a few extra days, or just want to make the most of your time in this part of Catalonia, there are a handful of nearby places that pair really well with Pals. All are close enough for a relaxed half-day trip, and each one brings something slightly different: from coastlines to tiny hilltop villages.

Peratallada
This one’s about 10 minutes by car, and probably one of the most charming medieval villages in the region. It’s even smaller than Pals, with narrow lanes and stone buildings that haven’t changed much in centuries. There’s not a ton “to do” - which is the whole point. Walk, wander, maybe grab a vermouth in the main square. Done.

Begur
If you want to mix your trip with a coastal vibe without hitting a resort town, Begur is a good choice. It’s around 15 minutes from Pals and has a more bohemian feel with small boutiques, modern cafés, and a few tucked-away coves nearby if the weather’s nice. The walk up to the old castle ruins is worth it for the sea views.

Palau-Sator
Super tiny, very local, and ideal if you want to feel like you’ve found a place no one else bothered to look up. It’s close to Pals and perfect for a short visit - especially if you’re into photography or just want a peaceful place to sit with a coffee and do nothing at all.

Gola del Ter / Platja de Pals
Just a short drive from town, the rice fields eventually give way to open dunes and long stretches of quiet coastline. In the off-season, it’s almost empty. If you’re up for a nice walk or want to see where the Ter River meets the sea, this is a great low-effort afternoon. Bring snacks and take your time.

Cyclist or slow-hike friendly areas
If you’re travelling with a bike or don’t mind walking a bit, the whole Baix Empordà region is laced with country paths and small back roads connecting villages and fields. There’s a cycling route that loops through Pals, Peratallada, and Ullastret. It’s mostly flat, with great views the whole way.

Along the coast, there are still a few towns that haven’t tipped into full summer mode, especially if you look at these coastal spots in Spain where local markets still feel like part of everyday life.

What to know before visiting Pals

Pals doesn’t usually show up at the top of guidebooks, and that’s part of why it still feels the way it does.

You don’t need much time here. A couple of days is enough. Good shoes help, mostly because you’ll end up walking more than you planned, through the old town, out toward the rice fields, and back again without really thinking about it.

It’s also easy to work into a wider trip along the Costa Brava or around Girona. Whether you’re driving or moving between places by bus, it sits in that in-between space that works well when you don’t want another busy stop. Somewhere to pause for a bit before moving on.

Nearby places like Girona, Begur, or Peratallada tend to draw more attention. Pals doesn’t try to compete with them. It just sits slightly aside from it all, which is usually why people end up liking it more than expected.

If you’re travelling on your own, it’s an easy place to be. You won’t stand out, and you won’t feel like you need to fill your time. If you’re travelling with someone, it’s the kind of place where you don’t need to plan much to enjoy it.

If you like places like Pals, where things feel slightly removed from the main flow, you’ll probably find yourself drawn to these abandoned castles across Spain that are still possible to visit if you know where to look.

FAQs: Visiting Pals on the Costa Brava

Is Pals worth visiting on the Costa Brava?

Yes, especially if you’re looking for somewhere quieter than the typical coastal towns. Pals sits slightly inland, which means you get the same scenery without the constant flow of beach traffic. It’s a good choice if you want a slower, more grounded stop on your trip.

How many days do you need in Pals?

Two to three days is usually enough. The old town is compact, but the experience isn’t about seeing everything quickly. It’s about spending time there, walking, eating well, and not rushing between places.

What is Pals known for?

Pals is known for its preserved medieval centre, views over the surrounding rice fields, and its local rice production (Arròs de Pals). It’s also one of the quieter spots in the Costa Brava region.

Is Pals better than other Costa Brava towns?

It depends on what you’re looking for. If you want beaches and nightlife, places like Begur or Calella de Palafrugell might suit you better. If you want something calmer, with fewer crowds and a more local feel, Pals tends to work better.

Can you visit Pals without a car?

It’s possible, but less convenient. There are buses connecting Pals to nearby towns like Girona, but having a car makes it much easier to explore the surrounding villages, countryside, and coastline at your own pace.

When is the best time to visit Pals?

Spring and autumn are the most comfortable times. Summer can get busy, especially during the day. In autumn, the pace slows down, temperatures are milder, and the town feels more local again.

Are there beaches near Pals?

Yes. Platja de Pals is about a 10-minute drive from the old town. It’s a long, open beach that’s usually less crowded than some of the smaller coves along the Costa Brava.

Where should you stay in Pals?

Staying in or near the old town works best if you want to be able to walk everywhere. There are also countryside stays just outside Pals if you prefer more space and quieter surroundings.

What should you eat in Pals?

Look for dishes made with local rice (Arròs de Pals), as well as simple regional food like grilled vegetables, seafood, and seasonal ingredients. Many places focus on straightforward cooking rather than elaborate menus.

Is Pals good for solo travel?

Yes. It’s easy to navigate, safe, and relaxed. You won’t feel out of place eating alone or walking around without a plan. It’s one of those places where being on your own feels natural.

Is Pals good for couples?

Yes. It’s a good option if you want something quieter and more low-key than the busier Costa Brava towns. The setting, food, and pace all lend themselves well to a slower trip.

Can you visit Pals as a day trip?

You can, but it’s better with at least one overnight stay. The town is small, but it’s the slower pace that makes it worth visiting, and that’s harder to experience in just a few hours.

A weekend in Pals: the Costa Brava without the crowds