Olive Mill Weekends in Umbria: Frantoi Aperti Towns to Stay In
Autumn in Italy is rarely quiet. It’s harvest season, truffle season, wine season - a time when food takes the lead and even the smallest towns feel like they’re hosting something. But not every region handles it the same way.
In Umbria, things really do unfold more slowly. The colours arrive a little later, the hills go deeper into rust and gold, and the atmosphere is more subdued than you might expect from central Italy. It’s a place that still feels lived in - especially in October and November, when most tourists have gone!
And this is where Frantoi Aperti comes in. If you’ve never heard of it, it’s not a major event in the way harvest festivals usually are. There’s no headline city, no big ticket. It’s a series of low-key open weekends across Umbria’s olive-growing towns, where local mills open their doors and invite you in to taste the year’s new oil - usually alongside something warm, something local, and something made that morning. It’s casual, seasonal, and rooted in place. And if you like the idea of showing up somewhere without needing an itinerary, it’s one of the most rewarding times to travel in this part of Italy.
The name means “open olive mills,” and that’s exactly what it is. There’s no need for reservations, just curiosity and a bit of hunger. Some towns go big with guided walks, music, long lunches in the piazza. Others keep it simple: just the mill, the oil, and whatever food is coming out of the kitchen that day. It’s hyper local, and the experience changes from town to town - which is why where you stay really matters.
In 2025, Frantoi Aperti will run from October 18 to November 16, spread over four weekends. The new Espresso Assisi train from Rome has also made this region easier to reach than ever. If you're arriving by rail, it’s now possible to step off the train and into an olive town within two hours of leaving the city.
In this guide, we’ve focused on three towns that are ideal for this kind of trip:
Trevi, known for its hillside views and serious oil culture;
Spello, which offers a softer, quieter base with excellent food and art;
and Giano dell’Umbria, lesser known but more connected to the olive harvest than most.
These aren’t just pretty places for a weekend break. They’re towns where Frantoi Aperti actually happens. The oil mills are real, the food is coming from the fields around them, and the rhythm of the season is easy to fall into. Coming for a quiet olive oil weekend? Or maybe a solo trip with good food? Or just looking for a slower reason to visit Italy in autumn? Well, this is a very good excuse.
Trevi During Frantoi Aperti: Olive Culture at Its Core
Trevi isn’t the kind of town that changes itself to be more appealing in autumn. It’s just that autumn happens to suit it. Set high on a ridge between Spoleto and Foligno, this compact Umbrian town is surrounded on all sides by olive groves. You can see them as soon as you arrive: silver-green trees covering the hillside like a blanket, right up to the town’s stone walls. The local olive oil (Trevi’s DOP) is known across Italy for being intense, peppery, and cold-pressed just hours after harvest. It’s not a side product here. It’s the point.
That makes Trevi one of the best places to base yourself for Frantoi Aperti. This isn’t a one-off weekend event here - it runs throughout the season, with different mills and producers opening on rotation. The town takes its oil seriously, but not in a showy way. You’ll find tastings at local frantoi (mills), long table lunches, olive grove walks with producers, and slow food stalls tucked into the medieval lanes around the centre. Most of it is informal and seasonal. If you happen to be there at the right hour, you’re in.
One of the most respected mills in the area is Frantoio Gaudenzi, a short drive from the centre. It’s family-run, with three generations behind it, and known for its single-varietal oils made entirely from local olives. During Frantoi Aperti weekends, they often open for guided tastings, small group tours of the production space, and lunch pairings using new oil. It’s worth checking their site ahead of time, as schedules vary slightly each weekend.
If you’re not sure how it works, here’s the simple version: most mills are open to the public from late morning to late afternoon on Saturdays and Sundays between October 18 and November 16. Some events are listed in the local Frantoi Aperti program, but many are low-key. There’s no formal ticketing… just show up, say hello, and join a tasting. It’s all very relaxed. Comfortable shoes help, and so does calling ahead if you have a particular producer in mind.
For a quieter interlude, walk up to Villa Fabri, just outside the historic centre. The gardens are open to the public and look out over the olive-covered slopes below Trevi. In late afternoon light, especially with a pastry or something warm in hand, it’s one of the best places in town to pause.
You can also learn more about what you’re tasting at the Museo della Civiltà dell’Olivo, a small but well-done museum focused entirely on olive cultivation in this region. It’s housed in a former convent and includes historic tools, pressing techniques, and a tasting room where local producers often host informal samplings.
As for the food - this is one of those towns where even the bar snacks are good. In autumn, look for sedano nero di Trevi, a black celery grown almost exclusively here. You’ll see it stuffed and baked, or served alongside lentils, sausage, and thick slices of country bread. Local restaurants also lean into truffle pasta, wild greens, pumpkin risotto, and farro soup - all drizzled with the season’s first oil. Everything tastes brighter when the oil is new, and everyone knows it.
Before you leave, stop by one of the mills or buy direct from the producers. Most offer travel-safe tins or bottles, and many will ship internationally if you don’t want to fly with it. It’s also the best time to stock up! The oil is freshest in the first few weeks after pressing, and it’s often cheaper at the source.
Where to Stay in Trevi
Trevi has several small, character-filled places to stay, and most are within walking distance of the centre - which means you can take part in tastings, dinners, or late afternoon strolls without needing to get in a car. Here are a few that fit our mood: warm, thoughtful, and personal.
Residenza Sant’Emiliano
Set in a 14th-century building right in the historic centre, this guesthouse blends old stone walls with pared-back, minimalist interiors. Rooms are airy and quiet, with views over the valley and olive groves below. The owners are discreet but helpful, and breakfasts often include homemade cakes, seasonal fruit, and local cheeses. It's a peaceful, well-designed space that feels personal without being overly styled.
Country House Le Grotte dei Saraceni
A few minutes outside Trevi by car, this small agriturismo offers a more rural setting with rolling hills, terraced olive groves, and a farmhouse turned guesthouse. The rooms are traditional but comfortable, with fireplaces and thick stone walls. Breakfasts are generous, and there’s often fresh bread, oil from the property, and seasonal fruit from the garden. Best suited for travelers with a car, or those wanting a countryside base for mill visits.
Borgo della Marmotta
Technically located just outside Trevi in the countryside between Spoleto and Montefalco, this boutique hotel sits in a restored hamlet with a pool, spa, and garden surrounded by olive trees. It’s more upscale, but still quiet and rooted in the landscape. Interiors are warm and simple, with stone, linen, wood, and the on-site restaurant serves seasonal food with local wine. A good option if you’re looking to turn your Frantoi Aperti weekend into a full reset.
How to Get to Trevi by Train and Public transport
Trevi is small, but it’s surprisingly easy to reach by public transport - especially if you’re coming from Rome, Florence, or anywhere along the central train corridor.
The town has its own train station (Trevi Stazione), located in the valley below the historic centre. From the station, it’s about a 10-minute taxi ride or 25–30 minutes on foot up to the old town. The walk is uphill but doable, especially in cooler weather.
From Rome:
Take a direct regional train from Roma Termini to Trevi, which runs several times a day and takes just under 2 hours.
You can also take a fast train (Frecciarossa or Intercity) to Foligno, then transfer to a short local train to Trevi.
With the new Espresso Assisi route, connections to this region are improving! Especially on weekends. It’s now even easier to plan a Friday arrival and a Sunday return without needing a car.
From Florence:
Travel time is around 2.5 to 3 hours. The best route is via Terontola or Foligno, depending on the time of day. A quick transfer at Foligno puts you on the local line toward Trevi.
From Perugia:
You can reach Trevi by local train in about 45 minutes, with a transfer in Foligno.
If you're staying in Trevi without a car, it’s worth arranging a local taxi in advance to meet your train — especially on weekends when services are reduced. Your guesthouse can usually help with this.
Once you're in Trevi, the town is small enough to explore entirely on foot. Most Frantoi Aperti events are either walkable or offer shuttles from the centre to participating mills - especially on Saturdays.
Spello During Frantoi Aperti: Art, Olive Oil, and Easy Wandering
Spello will impress you… It’s a small hillside town between Assisi and Foligno, known more for its quiet corners and lived-in feel than any headline sights. The old town is built from pale pink stone that seems to warm up in the autumn light. It’s the kind of place where everything slows down naturally. You’re not rushing between attractions here. You’re walking through narrow lanes, under archways, past flower pots and carved doorways, all at a steady, easy pace.
During Frantoi Aperti, Spello keeps things simple. A handful of olive mills open up for tastings, some restaurants build seasonal menus around the freshly pressed oil, and now and then there’s a small demo or food stall set up just off the main piazza. There’s no big programme or schedule. You’re better off just showing up and seeing what’s going on.
The oil made around Spello comes mostly from Moraiolo olives, a local variety that grows well on these stony slopes. It has a green, slightly peppery flavour, and it turns up in just about everything this time of year - on farro soup, grilled meats, roast vegetables, or just on toast with nothing else. The food here is simple, but that’s exactly what makes the oil stand out.
One of the easiest places to visit is Frantoio di Spello, a cooperative olive mill just outside the town walls. They usually open for tastings on weekends during Frantoi Aperti and offer bottles pressed just days before. You don’t need to book ahead unless you’re in a group, but it’s always worth checking opening hours before heading over. It’s a low-key visit, but that’s part of the experience.
Spello is also just a good town for walking. If you feel like getting out of the centre, there’s a short path from Porta Montanara down toward Fonte della Bulgarella, a small spring below the olive groves. It’s not a hike, more of a gentle loop, but it gives you a chance to see the harvest in action if you’re there at the right time. From there, you can loop back up past Villa Fidelia, an old estate with open gardens and wide valley views.
There’s a bit of art and history here too, though nothing overly packaged. The Cappella Baglioni, inside Santa Maria Maggiore, is home to some well-preserved frescoes by Pinturicchio. In autumn, it’s often quiet enough to look around slowly without anyone else in the room. There’s also a Roman mosaic tucked into one of the side streets which is easy to miss unless you’re looking for it, which is fairly typical of Spello. This isn’t a town built for tourism. It just happens to be a very good place to spend time.
Where to Stay in Spello
There are some lovely small places to stay in Spello - most of them tucked inside the historic centre or just outside the gates. If you’re visiting for Frantoi Aperti, the key is walkability and calm, and these three cover both.
La Bastiglia Boutique Hotel
On the upper edge of town, with big valley views and an understated feel. Rooms are clean and comfortable (not fancy, but warm) and the on-site restaurant leans into autumn flavours. Staff can help arrange olive oil tastings or local meals. A calm, dependable base.
Casa Berti
A restored apartment just off Via Giulia, the main walking street. Interiors are pared-back with old beams, handmade ceramics, and good lighting. Ideal for solo travelers or couples who want to cook a little, come and go, and settle into a rhythm. Quiet and easy to like.
Residenza Torre Acquatino
Just outside the walls, with a bit more space and garden views. These are larger apartments with kitchenettes, which is useful if you’re staying more than a couple of nights. Still close enough to walk into town, but with more breathing room and a slower pace.
How to Get to Spello by Train or Public Transport
Spello is one of the easier small towns to reach without a car. It sits on the Foligno–Perugia rail line, and trains stop just below the centre. From the station, it’s a 10–15 minute uphill walk into town.
From Rome:
Take a train from Roma Termini to Foligno, then transfer to a local train for the 10-minute ride to Spello. Total travel time is about 2.5 hours. There are also a few direct trains: check Trenitalia.
You can also take the new Espresso Assisi route and switch to Spello via train or a short taxi.
From Florence:
Fast trains run to Terontola, where you can change for the local line through Perugia and Assisi. Spello is just past Assisi. Journey time is around 3 hours with decent connections.
From Perugia or Assisi:
Regular local trains run daily. From Perugia, it’s about 30 minutes. From Assisi, just 10–15 minutes. No reservation needed.
Once you’re in Spello, you can walk everywhere. Most olive tastings happen in town or just beyond the walls, and mills that are farther out usually offer simple ways to get there on Frantoi Aperti weekends.
Giano dell’Umbria: Olive Oil, Forest Trails, and a Quieter Kind of Weekend
If you're looking for the part of Umbria that still feels mostly untouched by tourism, Giano is it. This small hill town doesn’t have much in the way of shops or sights, and that’s kind of the point. What it does have (especially in autumn) is quiet, working countryside, excellent olive oil, and a few of the most local-feeling Frantoi Aperti events anywhere in the region.
The town itself sits at around 500 metres, looking out over olive groves and low forested hills. It’s small! Just a few streets, a bar, a bakery, a couple of restaurants - but the atmosphere during Frantoi Aperti is relaxed and local. You’re more likely to end up at a table next to a farmer than another visitor. Most of the activity centres around the Castello di Giano, the main square, and the olive mills just outside town.
One of the most active mills is Frantoio Clerici, which opens throughout Frantoi Aperti weekends with tastings, mill tours, and often lunch cooked on-site - usually outside, under a canopy or pergola, with everything built around the new season’s oil. You’ll often see roasted meats, grilled vegetables, fresh bread, and simple Umbrian sweets like torcolo or ciambelline served with sweet wine. It’s very informal, and you can usually just turn up, though it helps to call ahead if you’re coming with a group.
Another well-known producer is Frantoio Speranza, which offers guided visits and has a small shop with oil, jams, and local products made from foraged herbs and fruits. They also tend to organise olive harvesting demos for kids and families — something different if you're travelling with children or just curious to see how the work is done.
What makes Giano interesting is how connected it still is to the land. The oil here comes mainly from San Felice and Moraiolo olives (both native varieties) and many of the groves are still harvested by hand. You get the sense that this isn’t something being revived or rebranded for tourism. It’s just how things have always been done.
If you want to explore on foot, there are a few forest and country trails that start just outside town. One of the easier options is the Sentiero degli Ulivi, a marked olive path that winds between groves and small shrines, with views toward Monte Martano. You don’t need hiking gear, but good shoes help, as some stretches are rocky, especially after rain. Autumn is a good time to walk it: cool air, golden light, and a real sense of space.
There aren’t many official museums or sights in Giano, but it’s a good base if you’re looking to slow down. The rhythm of the weekend tends to revolve around tastings, walks, and meals. The food is amazing… It’s especially well suited to travellers who want to avoid anything staged or overly curated. You won’t find souvenir stalls or food trucks here. But if you’re happy to trade that for a long lunch next to someone who picked their own olives that week, it’s a good choice.
Where to Stay in Giano dell’Umbria
Accommodation in Giano is more rural than boutique, but that fits the setting. These are stays that work well for the season - warm, locally run, and designed around comfort rather than design trends. You’ll need a car or a short taxi from nearby towns, but once you’re there, everything slows down naturally.
Tenuta San Felice
A countryside farmhouse just a few minutes’ drive from the town centre. Rooms are simple but warm, with stone walls, terracotta floors, and valley views. Breakfast includes local ricotta, seasonal fruit, and homemade cakes. It’s run by a family who also harvest their own olives, and they’re usually happy to chat or point you toward the best lunch spots nearby.
Agriturismo Colle del Capitano
This place feels more remote, but it’s one of the most peaceful stays in the area. The agriturismo is surrounded by olive trees and forest trails, with small apartments and a restaurant open on weekends. If you’re visiting during Frantoi Aperti, they usually serve dishes made with their own oil and local wine. Good for a slower, more disconnected kind of weekend.
Casa Vacanze Ripa Alta
A small guesthouse in a restored farmhouse about 10 minutes outside Giano. Apartments have wood-burning stoves, basic kitchens, and views over the Umbrian hills. There’s no restaurant, but most guests use it as a quiet base for driving between mills and towns. Simple, clean, and dependable.
How to Get to Giano dell’Umbria by Public Transport
Giano is less directly connected than Trevi or Spello, but it’s still accessible by public transport if you don’t mind a short taxi or bus ride at the end.
The closest major train station is Foligno, which sits on the main Rome–Ancona line. From there, you can take a local bus (Linea E402 or E403) toward Giano, or grab a taxi from the station, which takes around 25–30 minutes.
If you're coming from Rome, take the regional or fast train (Frecciabianca or Intercity) to Foligno — travel time is around 1.5 to 2 hours depending on the train. From Perugia, Foligno is about 30–40 minutes by train.
A number of local agriturismi will arrange pick-up from Foligno if you let them know in advance, especially during Frantoi Aperti weekends when public transport runs less frequently.
Once you're in Giano, most of the mills are reachable by car, on foot, or via short local shuttle during the weekend events.
What Makes Umbrian Olive Oil Different?
The olive oil you’ll taste during Frantoi Aperti isn’t just fresh - it’s local in the real sense of the word. Each mill produces oil that reflects its own blend of olive varieties, harvesting methods, and soil conditions. And because these towns sit in the heart of central Umbria, the oils here tend to share some key characteristics: bold, grassy, and often with a peppery kick that you feel at the back of your throat.
The main variety you’ll come across is Moraiolo, which grows well on the rocky, sloped terrain around Trevi, Spello, and Giano. It’s picked early, pressed quickly, and results in oil that’s bright green, herbaceous, and slightly bitter in a good way. It’s the kind of oil that doesn’t disappear into food: it stands out. You’ll also hear about San Felice (especially around Giano), which produces a milder, slightly fruitier oil, and Frantoio, which balances things out with more softness.
This region has DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) status under Umbria Colli Assisi–Spoleto, meaning the oil is traceable, regulated, and tied to place. During Frantoi Aperti, most mills will let you taste oils side by side so you can actually compare how the terrain, timing, and blend change the flavour.
It’s not about branding, it’s just the way people here make oil. And the best way to understand it is to taste it with nothing else: on toast, still warm from the fire, with maybe a pinch of salt.
Where to Taste and Buy Olive Oil in Umbria
If you’re visiting during Frantoi Aperti, many of the smaller mills offer tastings and direct sales on-site - sometimes in plastic bottles, sometimes already bottled and labeled. But if you’re looking for something to bring home or send as a gift, it’s worth asking about DOP-labeled options, especially from mills that are part of the Colli Assisi–Spoleto consortium.
Here are a few producers in the Trevi–Spello–Giano area that are worth a stop. Not just for the oil, but for the chance to learn how it’s made from people who’ve been doing it for generations.
Frantoio Gaudenzi – Trevi
One of the most established mills in the area, with several DOP oils available to taste and buy. Their extra virgin selections are consistently high quality, and the staff are used to visitors - they’ll talk you through the different blends and even ship internationally if needed. Open for tastings during Frantoi Aperti weekends, usually without booking.
Frantoio di Spello – Spello
This is a co-op mill just outside town with deep roots in the local community. They offer informal tastings and have a small shop where you can buy freshly pressed oil (often bottled that same week). Look for their DOP-labeled bottles, which are usually marked with the Assisi–Spoleto designation.
Frantoio Clerici – Giano dell’Umbria
A smaller, family-run operation just outside Giano. During Frantoi Aperti they usually offer guided tastings, olive oil-based lunches, and tours of the mill itself. Their oil is robust, peppery, and made almost entirely from Moraiolo olives. They often sell directly in DOP bottles, and sometimes offer refillable tins for locals.
Where to Find DOP Oil in Shops
If you’re not visiting a mill directly, the easiest place to pick up Umbria DOP oil is at local enotecas, small grocers, or regional food shops in larger towns like Foligno, Spoleto, or Perugia. Look for bottles marked with the green and red DOP seal, and double check the label for the specific subzone - "Colli Assisi–Spoleto" is what you’re looking for in this part of Umbria.
You can also ask your accommodation as many guesthouses stock or recommend oils made by friends, neighbours, or extended family. In a region where olive oil is part of daily life, the best tips often come from whoever’s cooking your breakfast.
A Quiet Olive Season Worth Catching
You don’t have to plan your whole trip around Frantoi Aperti - but if you’re already heading to Umbria in late October or early November, it’s well worth making space for.
These weekends aren’t packed with events or big productions. They’re local, seasonal, and quietly tied to everyday life here. The mills open their doors, meals centre around freshly pressed oil, and towns that are usually overlooked become places you want to linger in.
Autumn suits Umbria. The pace is slower, the light is softer, and the food feels heartier. Travelling now means fewer crowds, colder evenings, and the kind of days that aren’t about ticking things off - but just being there, noticing what’s happening, tasting what’s in season, and letting that shape your weekend.
You won’t come home with a long list of attractions. But you might come home remembering a long lunch, a walk through the groves, or someone handing you a piece of toasted bread with nothing but new oil on it.
That’s the kind of travel this region does best.
Want to keep wandering?
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FAQ: Frantoi Aperti and Autumn Olive Oil Travel in Umbria
What is Frantoi Aperti in Umbria?
Frantoi Aperti (literally “open olive mills”) is an annual autumn event in Umbria where local olive producers open their doors for tastings, tours, and seasonal food. It usually runs across several weekends from mid-October to mid-November, with events happening in towns like Trevi, Spello, and Giano dell’Umbria. It’s low-key, mostly local, and a great way to experience freshly pressed olive oil and see how it’s made.
When is Frantoi Aperti 2025 happening?
Frantoi Aperti 2025 is expected to run from October 18 to November 16, covering five weekends of events. Each participating town usually focuses its events around a specific weekend, so it’s worth checking the official programme once it’s published (typically by late summer). Most events happen on Saturdays and Sundays.
What kind of olive oil is made in Umbria?
Umbria produces mostly extra virgin olive oil, known for its bold, peppery, and slightly bitter flavour — especially when made from Moraiolo, San Felice, and Frantoio olives. These varieties are harvested early, pressed quickly, and often bottled under the DOP “Umbria Colli Assisi–Spoleto” label, which guarantees regional origin and quality. The oil is green-gold in colour and often used raw drizzled over soups, grilled vegetables, or toasted bread.
Where can I taste fresh olive oil in Umbria?
You can taste fresh olive oil at many small mills during Frantoi Aperti weekends. Recommended mills include Frantoio Gaudenzi (Trevi), Frantoio di Spello, and Frantoio Clerici (Giano). These places offer informal tastings and sometimes food pairings. No need to book for most tastings, but it’s best to check ahead, especially on busy weekends.
Do I need a car to visit olive oil mills in Umbria?
Not necessarily. Towns like Trevi and Spello are reachable by train from Rome and Florence, and some mills are within walking distance or a short taxi ride. That said, having a car makes it easier to explore rural areas like Giano dell’Umbria or visit multiple mills in one day. If you're staying in town, many places focus events within walking distance or offer free shuttles during Frantoi Aperti weekends.
Can I buy olive oil directly from producers?
Yes. Almost all mills sell directly to visitors during Frantoi Aperti. You’ll find freshly pressed oil, often in DOP-labelled bottles or refillable tins. Many also ship internationally or offer small tasting sets you can take home. Look for the green and red DOP seal to make sure you’re buying certified regional oil.
What’s the best time to visit Umbria for olive oil season?
The last two weeks of October and first two weeks of November are peak time for new oil. The harvest is usually in full swing, and most mills are pressing daily. Towns like Trevi and Spello are especially lively during their Frantoi Aperti weekends, but even quieter towns like Giano offer tastings and small gatherings.
What should I wear to an olive oil weekend in Umbria?
Autumn weather in Umbria can be changeable! Expect cool mornings, mild afternoons, and possible rain. Bring layers, comfortable shoes for walking, and something warm for the evenings. Many tastings and lunches are held outdoors or under open canopies, so it’s best to dress casually and prepare for uneven ground or muddy paths in rural areas.
