Slow Travel in São Miguel: Hot Springs, Tea Fields, and Tranquility in the Azores

If you’re the kind of traveler who prefers misty mornings over busy beaches and thermal springs over ticking off sights, São Miguel in spring might be exactly what you need. This is the largest island in the Azores, a Portuguese archipelago floating in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, about a two-hour flight from Lisbon—and it feels like it exists in its own quiet rhythm.

Spring in the Azores is when everything starts to come alive. The hydrangeas haven’t fully bloomed yet (that’s summer’s show), but the tea fields are green, the trails are soft from recent rain, and the air smells fresh—somewhere between eucalyptus, ocean breeze, and volcanic steam.

Two of the best places to slow down on São Miguel are Furnas, the island’s geothermal village filled with hot springs and bubbling earth, and Gorreana, home to Europe’s oldest tea plantation. Both are calm, naturally therapeutic, and easy to explore without a packed itinerary. Whether you’re traveling solo or just want a quieter kind of escape, this part of the island invites you to take it slow, soak it in (literally), and reset without distraction.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the peaceful side of São Miguel, with relaxed tips for exploring Furnas’ thermal baths, visiting Caldeira Velha, and sipping local tea with a view of the hills.

furnas, the azores

Why Spring in the Azores Just Feels Right

If you’ve ever felt like a destination was made for shoulder season, the Azores in spring is exactly that. The islands (especially São Miguel) start waking up after a damp winter, and everything from the mossy trails to the thermal baths feels cleaner, quieter, and more alive.

The weather? Unpredictable in the best way. You’ll probably get a bit of drizzle, a streak of sun, and maybe even some fog curling around the hillsides all in the same morning. But that’s part of the charm. Spring isn’t postcard-perfect—it’s fresh, green, and grounding. Think wildflowers lining the roads, tea fields glowing in the mist, and clouds hanging low over volcanic valleys. You don’t come here for clear skies every day… you come for the atmosphere.

This time of year is also ideal for slow travelers and introverts. The tour buses haven’t really started yet, the popular hot springs like Poça da Dona Beija or Caldeira Velha are easier to enjoy without crowds, and even the scenic drives feel unhurried. You can park where you want, hike without bumping into too many people, and still find last-minute bookings at charming guesthouses.

Not to mention, spring travel to the Azores usually means better flight deals and lower accommodation rates compared to peak summer months. If you like your adventures quiet, cozy, and just a bit weather-wild, this is the season to go.


Furnas — Slow Days and Hot Springs

If you're flying into Ponta Delgada and wondering where to head for a true reset, Furnas should be your first stop. This small, steaming village sits deep in the eastern interior of São Miguel, the largest island in the Azores, and is known for its bubbling mud pots, thermal pools, and natural hot springs. But it’s not a theme park. Furnas is a living village - with locals who grow vegetables in volcanic soil, walk their dogs past geysers, and still cook dinner underground using heat from the earth.

It’s one of those rare places where tourism hasn’t pushed out the rhythm of everyday life. You’ll find bakeries that don’t rush their loaves, cafés where no one’s typing on a laptop, and paths where it’s normal to be alone for a while.

Why Visit Furnas in Spring?

Spring is hands-down the best time to visit Furnas. Between March and early June, the weather is comfortably cool (usually 15–18°C), but the thermal pools are piping hot, and the hillsides surrounding the town burst into fresh green. Rain comes and goes, but it’s usually light—and the moody mist only adds to the vibe.

Best of all? No crowds yet. Tour groups don’t really start showing up until later in summer. That means no waiting in line at the hot springs, no busloads of people crowding the park trails, and more chances to actually talk to locals instead of following a flagged guide.



Where to Stay in Furnas

Furnas isn’t the kind of place where you want to be driving around all day. The beauty here is in being able to walk everywhere—to the park, to the springs, to your favorite café. So whether you’re going boutique or budget, find a place that puts you within easy reach of the village center.

Furnas Boutique Hotel

If you’re looking for something stylish but not sterile, Furnas Boutique Hotel is a solid choice. It’s modern without being cold—think dark wood, stone accents, and a spa that includes a thermal pool, sauna, and massage services. Their restaurant (À Terra) is great if you want to try local dishes made with Azorean ingredients (without leaving the property).

You're only a short walk from Terra Nostra Park, and the staff are used to hosting slow travelers—they won’t blink if you ask about the best time to visit the springs when no one else is around.

Quinta de Santana

If you’d rather stay somewhere that feels like a country home, Quinta de Santana is a guesthouse-style stay just outside the center of Furnas. It’s surrounded by gardens, and the rooms are simple but cozy. Mornings here tend to be quiet—just birdsong and the occasional distant steam puff from the valley.

They serve a locally sourced breakfast, often with fresh bread, island cheeses, homemade jam, and eggs from a neighbor’s farm. You can walk into town from here in about 15–20 minutes, but you’ll feel like you’re on your own peaceful corner of the island.

Guesthouses and Airbnbs in Furnas

If you’re traveling solo or prefer a more independent stay, Furnas has a great range of Airbnbs and small guesthouses that fit the slow-travel style. Look for listings close to Rua da Água Quente or near Largo das Três Bicas, where most local shops and cafés are.

Some hosts will leave you with homemade bread or a tip-off on which restaurant is still cooking cozido fresh at lunch (not reheated). And the best part? You can wander down to a hot spring after dinner with a towel slung over your shoulder—like it’s just part of your day.

Furnas Boutique Hotel

Furnas Boutique Hotel

Terra Nostra Park

Terra Nostra Park


Where to Eat in Furnas: Best Places to Try Cozido and Local Azorean Food

After a morning soak or a walk through Terra Nostra Park, you’ll want something filling—and this village delivers. Furnas is known for one thing in particular when it comes to food: cozido das Furnas, a traditional Azorean stew slow-cooked underground using geothermal heat.

Yes, it sounds like a touristy gimmick. But it’s not. It’s been part of the local way of life for generations. Large pots are lowered into volcanic vents by the lake, where they simmer for several hours buried in hot soil. The result is a deeply flavorful, earthy mix of meats, cabbage, potatoes, and island-grown root vegetables.

Two of the best places to try it:

  • Tony’s: A longtime local favorite with big portions, friendly staff, and reliably good cozido. It’s informal, affordable, and just a short stroll from the lake.

  • À Terra (inside Furnas Boutique Hotel): A more upscale setting with a modern twist on regional dishes. Great if you want something cozy but a bit more refined—especially if you’re staying at the hotel.

Can’t handle a full cozido? Split it with a friend or go for a smaller plate and finish with a local dessert—queijadas (cheese pastries) and bolo lêvedo (sweet bread) are often on the menu. Pair it with a strong espresso or a local tea, and you’re all set for an afternoon of slow exploring.


Things to Do in Furnas in the Afternoon: Walks, Hot Springs, and Lake Views

With a full stomach and a relaxed mood, spend the afternoon walking off lunch around Lagoa das Furnas. The loop trail is about 9km (roughly 2 hours at a slow pace), flat, and offers plenty of benches, photo stops, and quiet corners to pause. You’ll pass steaming vents where locals cook cozido, small chapels, and scenic viewpoints across the lake and surrounding forest.

À Terra restaurant Furnas

You need to experience À Terra restaurant…

The Chapel of Nossa Senhora das Vitórias, a neo-Gothic structure on the southern shore, is worth a visit—even just to sit outside and admire the view. Bring water, maybe a snack, and don’t rush. You’ll likely have stretches of the trail to yourself, especially in spring.

If you’re not up for the full loop, you can simply follow part of the trail from town and turn back when you feel like it. It’s more about the peace than the distance.

Before you end your day, head to Poça da Dona Beija, one of the coziest hot spring spots in Furnas. These open-air pools are set into a green hillside with thermal water flowing through natural stone channels. The water sits around 38–40°C (100–104°F), which makes it perfect just before sunset when the air starts to cool.

There are five pools of different depths and temperatures, plus changing rooms and lockers. Entrance is around €8, and it’s open late - so you can soak under soft light or even stars if you're lucky.

Local tip: Bring a dark-colored swimsuit and an older towel. The mineral-rich water (especially iron) can stain lighter fabrics over time.


Visiting Gorreana Tea Plantation in São Miguel: Scenic Hikes, Tea Tasting, and How to Get There

If you're traveling to the Azores in spring and love slow, scenic experiences, a visit to the Gorreana Tea Plantation should absolutely be on your list. Located on the north coast of São Miguel Island, this is Europe’s only commercial tea plantation - and also its oldest, operating since 1883.

Yes, there's a factory tour and a tasting room (which are great), but what makes Gorreana especially worth your time? The trails.

Gorreana Tea Estate

Gorreana Tea Estate

How to Get to Gorreana Tea Plantation

From Furnas, it’s a scenic 30-minute drive north, winding through lush inland hills and out toward the coast. The route is well-paved and easy to navigate in spring, though it’s smart to drive cautiously if you hit patches of fog (which is common on São Miguel). Parking is free and available onsite.

If you’re not renting a car, ask your guesthouse or hotel about arranging a private transfer or guided half-day tour that includes Gorreana and nearby viewpoints. Some local guides also offer combined hiking and tea experiences, which are ideal for solo travelers or anyone wanting deeper context.

What to Expect at Gorreana

When you arrive, you’ll first see the whitewashed factory and main building. Inside, you can tour the old machinery used for processing green and black tea, learn about the plantation’s sustainable growing practices, and sample several types of tea for free. Their green tea is especially popular—light, earthy, and grown without pesticides.

But the real highlight? The tea field walking trails.

Behind the factory, there’s a moderately easy hiking trail that loops through the plantation and into the surrounding hills. It offers panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean, the rolling tea rows, and the rugged coastline that defines this part of São Miguel.

In spring, the trail is at its most beautiful. Low-hanging mist often settles over the tea fields in the morning, giving the landscape a soft, surreal quality that feels both peaceful and cinematic. You might even have the entire trail to yourself if you come early.

What to Bring:

  • Comfortable walking shoes (some areas can be muddy)

  • A light jacket or windbreaker (it gets breezy)

  • A reusable water bottle

  • Your camera - this place is seriously photogenic

After your walk, head back to the tasting room for a quiet break. Sit outside if the weather’s good and enjoy a warm cup of tea with a view of the fields. If you're shopping for souvenirs, grab a few packs of loose-leaf tea (they're affordable, local, and light to pack).


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FAQ: Planning a Spring Trip to Furnas and Gorreana in São Miguel, Azores

Is Furnas worth visiting in the Azores?
Yes, especially in spring. Furnas is one of the most unique destinations on São Miguel Island, thanks to its geothermal activity, natural hot springs, volcanic lakes, and slow village atmosphere. It’s ideal for travelers looking for peace, nature, and wellness-focused activities.

When is the best time to visit Furnas and Gorreana Tea Plantation?
Late March through May is an excellent time to visit. You’ll avoid the summer crowds, enjoy mild weather (around 15–20°C), and see the island at its greenest. Spring is also when wildflowers bloom and hiking trails are at their best.

How do I get to Furnas without renting a car?
You can reach Furnas from Ponta Delgada by bus (about 90 minutes) or arrange a private transfer through your accommodation. Some guided tours also include Furnas and Gorreana as part of a day trip, which is a good option if you want transport and local insight.

Can I visit Gorreana Tea Plantation on my own?
Yes, Gorreana is open to the public and free to visit. You can walk the tea trails behind the factory, tour the production area, and enjoy complimentary tea tastings. No reservation is needed, but arriving early gives you the trails mostly to yourself.

What should I pack for spring in the Azores?
Layers are key. Bring a lightweight waterproof jacket, comfortable walking shoes, and a swimsuit for the hot springs. Weather can shift quickly on the island, so a small umbrella or packable raincoat is smart.

Is the cozido das Furnas really cooked underground?
Yes! It’s a traditional Azorean dish slow-cooked using geothermal heat directly from the ground. Restaurants like Tony’s and À Terra serve it daily, and it’s a must-try local experience when visiting Furnas.

Are the hot springs in Furnas open year-round?
Most thermal baths, like Poça da Dona Beija and Terra Nostra Park, are open year-round. Spring is a great time to enjoy them with fewer crowds and more relaxed vibes.


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