The Silence of Stone: A Soulful Escape to Matera, Italy (Before the Summer Crowds)
There are some places that make you feel like you've walked into another lifetime—without the need to overthink it. Matera is that place.
Cut into the cliffs of southern Italy, Matera looks dramatic in photos. But in person? It’s a little quieter, softer, and slower than you expect—especially in May, when the sun is out, the crowds haven’t arrived, and the stones still feel cool from winter. It’s the kind of place you come to be rather than do.
This is your guide to leaning into that feeling.
Matera, Italy
Where to Stay: A Cave, But Make It Cozy
Let’s start with what makes Matera feel so different: the Sassi. These ancient cave dwellings are what people come to see, but staying in one? Whole other story.
Le Dodici Lune: Right in the Sasso Caveoso district, this place blends modern comfort with cave charm. Think stone walls, good mattresses, warm lighting, and silence that hits different.
The outdoor spaces at Le Dodici Lune are so pretty
We love the sleek design at Le Dodici Lune
Corte San Pietro: Beautifully restored and tucked into the quieter part of town. It’s got that candlelit courtyard vibe that makes you want to write a novel (or just take a nap with a view).
Dreamy outdoor area at Corte San Pietro
Corte San Pietro - these rooms are just… wow.
Most of these boutique cave hotels include breakfast and are easy walking distance to the old town’s best viewpoints.
A (Realistic) Day in Silence
You don’t need to go full spiritual retreat here, but Matera kind of invites you to turn the volume down a bit. Here’s how to slow-walk a day that leaves space to breathe:
Morning: Start early. Not to hustle, but because sunrise over the Sassi is quiet magic. Grab a pastry from I Vizi degli Angeli and sit with your coffee on the steps above Piazza San Pietro Caveoso. No agenda. Just be.
Late Morning: Wander up to Casa Noha, a multimedia intro to Matera’s history in a former noble home. It’s small, well done, and helps you understand what you’re walking through. From there, follow the stone alleys to Santa Lucia alle Malve, a rock church with faded frescoes that feel oddly intimate.
Statue by Margherita Grasselli in Matera
Casa Noha
You won’t regret a visit to i Vizi Degli Angeli
Lunch: Head to Trattoria Lucana (yes, the one Anthony Bourdain visited) for handmade orecchiette with local ricotta. It’s unfussy and perfectly salty.
Afternoon: Rest. Matera heats up mid-day, even in May, and the stone soaks up every bit of it. This is a great time to journal, nap, or visit a cool cave cistern like Palombaro Lungo if you need an activity.
Evening: Watch golden hour from Belvedere di Murgia Timone across the ravine. Bring a bottle of local wine and stay till the lights flicker on in the Sassi. Then head back for a cozy dinner at Ristorante Francesca or Vitantonio Lombardo, depending on your budget and vibe. We always recomend to make table reservations to not be disappointed.
Belvedere di Murgia Timone
Trattoria Lucana is a must (if you love food)
Slowly Wander Through Matera
Matera is a walking city. Just... bring shoes with grip, because the stones can be slippery. Here's where to get a little lost:
Via Ridola
If you’re in the mood for a gentle walk with a gelato in hand, this is the street to wander down. Lined with little bookshops, art galleries, and open squares, Via Ridola is easy to love. It’s less chaotic than the main tourist zones and still full of character. Pop into the Museo Ridola if you feel curious—it's small, quiet, and packed with local history without overwhelming you. Ideal for a mid-morning stroll when the sun’s warm but not yet too hot.
Civita Area
This is the old heart of Matera. It’s the part most people picture when they think of the city—stone churches, ancient walkways, and sweeping views of the Sassi. While it can get busy later in the day, mornings here are surprisingly calm. You’ll find golden light pouring over rooftops and silence in the narrow lanes. It’s a great place to just walk, look, and breathe—especially if you’re the kind of traveler who values a peaceful photo walk over rushing from one attraction to the next.
Sassi alleys between Caveoso and Barisano
This is where Matera really starts to feel like a living, breathing place—not just a beautiful backdrop. The narrow paths that weave between the Sassi neighborhoods are filled with quiet, unscripted moments: laundry strung up between buildings, sleepy cats lounging on sunlit steps, neighbors chatting across balconies. These in-between zones are where you get a sense of real life. It’s unfiltered, humble, and kind of magical.
A Few Cozy Highlights (Perfect for Breaks Between Wanders)
Lanfranchi Bookshop
Set just off Via Ridola, this little bookshop is a gem. You’ll find everything from travel journals and Italian cookbooks to poetry and local history books. It’s the kind of place where you don’t feel rushed—ideal for flipping through pages in peace or picking up a thoughtful souvenir that isn’t just another postcard.
Area 8
Equal parts coffee shop, bar, and creative space, Area 8 is where locals go when they want something a little different. During the day, it’s quiet enough to journal, read, or just sip something cold while soaking in the artsy vibe. At night, it sometimes hosts events or live music, but even then it keeps that easygoing energy. A great spot to unwind if you’re traveling solo and want somewhere that feels both social and relaxed.
Gelida Voglia
Yes, it’s technically a chain—but if you’re looking for reliable gelato that actually tastes like the fruit or nut it claims to be, this is your stop. It’s consistently good, with rich flavors and generous portions. Grab a cone, find a sunny step, and enjoy the simple pleasure of good gelato in a beautiful place.
Area 8
Frequently Asked Questions: Traveling to Matera, Italy
How to get to Matera from Rome without driving?
Take a train from Rome to Bari or Taranto, then transfer to a local bus or regional train. Another option: direct buses from Rome Tiburtina to Matera (about 5 hours total) are comfortable and budget-friendly.
Best time to visit Matera to avoid crowds?
May, early June, and September are ideal. The weather is still warm, flowers are in bloom, and the crowds haven’t yet arrived—or have just left. Early mornings in the Sassi are especially calm and atmospheric.
Where to stay in Matera Sassi for a quiet experience?
Try the area between Sasso Caveoso and Barisano. Look for cave hotels or guesthouses with views, breakfast included, and personal touches. These neighborhoods are still central but much quieter than the Civita peak zones.
Is Matera walkable for solo female travelers?
Yes. Matera’s historic center is compact and safe, especially during the day and early evenings. It’s all about comfortable shoes, a crossbody bag, and slow exploring. Locals are friendly and the streets are usually filled with people dining or strolling—not partying.
Offbeat things to do in Matera besides the Sassi?
Visit the Palombaro Lungo (an underground water cistern), browse books and crafts on Via Ridola, or sip a spritz at Area 8, a creative café-bar. For nature, walk the panoramic Belvedere trails across the ravine for a unique view of the city.
How many days do you need in Matera?
Two full days is perfect. One for exploring the historic center, cave dwellings, and museums; another for sunrise walks, café stops, and relaxing in the quiet alleyways. Add a third if you want to include hiking or day trips nearby.
Is Matera expensive for food and hotels?
It’s very reasonable compared to Rome or Florence. You can find boutique cave hotels under €150/night and great local meals under €20. Many guesthouses include homemade breakfast and helpful local tips.
What to pack for Matera in the fall?
Layers are key—light sweaters, a jacket, comfortable walking shoes with grip (the stones can be slippery), and something weatherproof in case of rain. A small daypack and portable charger will come in handy for long days out.
Is Matera worth visiting in spring?
Definitely. Spring brings blooming wildflowers, mild temperatures, and fewer tourists. It’s the perfect time for peaceful mornings, bike rides, and outdoor meals without the summer heat.
Can you stay in a cave hotel in Matera?
Yes—and it’s one of the best parts of visiting. Many of the old cave dwellings have been transformed into boutique hotels, combining ancient architecture with cozy, modern comforts.
Can I work from there?
Technically yes, but Wi-Fi in the caves can be patchy. You’ll find better connectivity in modern cafes and hotels—but maybe take the chance to unplug a little too.
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