Slow Living, Lilacs & Long Lunches: A Spring Escape to Uzès, France
Let’s get one thing straight: if you're going to Provence in the Spring and you're not interested in elbowing your way through lavender-scented souvenir shops or queueing for a photo in Gordes—you go to Uzès.
Tucked between Nîmes and Avignon, Uzès is what you imagine France feeling like, but never quite find in the high season. Think: shutters slightly open, wisteria crawling over old stone, and streets that smell faintly of thyme, lilac, and something warm baking.
Spring is when Uzès quietly wakes up. And if you’re after a trip that feels like a deep breath, this is your spot.
Getting There
You don’t need a car, but it helps. The easiest route is to fly into Nîmes or Montpellier, then rent a car and drive 45–60 minutes. Uzès itself is compact, so once you’re there, everything is walkable.
If you’re not driving, you can take a train to Nîmes or Avignon, then grab a regional bus (line B21) straight to Uzès. It’s surprisingly simple and very doable with light luggage.
Where to Stay: Courtyards & Shutters Required
You want charm, walkability, and ideally, a courtyard with lemon trees or a view of a bell tower. A few beautiful options:
La Maison d’Uzès
La Maison d’Uzès
Nestled in the heart of Uzès, La Maison d’Uzès offers the perfect blend of modern luxury and historic charm. This boutique hotel is housed in a beautifully restored building and features a serene spa, ideal for unwinding after a day of exploring the town’s cobblestone streets. The real highlight of this place is the stunning rooftop terrace, where guests can enjoy panoramic views of Uzès, with its iconic bell tower and surrounding landscapes. Whether you're enjoying a glass of local wine or simply soaking in the atmosphere, the views are sure to make your stay unforgettable. The hotel’s central location means you’re only a few steps away from the historic center, where local markets, charming cafés, and artisan shops await. A stay here offers not just a place to sleep but an experience steeped in the magic of the town.
Les Toits d’Uzès (Airbnb)
For those seeking a more intimate, home-like stay, Les Toits d’Uzès is a beautifully restored Airbnb apartment that feels like a true home away from home. The apartment boasts original tile floors that give it an authentic, rustic charm, while the private terrace offers a peaceful spot to relax and take in the surroundings. With its cozy ambiance, it’s perfect for solo travelers or couples who want a quiet retreat with a personal touch. Imagine waking up to the sound of birds chirping and the warm Mediterranean breeze, enjoying breakfast on your terrace surrounded by the beauty of the town. Located just a short walk from Uzès’ central attractions, Les Toits d’Uzès combines the best of both worlds: the comfort of a private apartment with the charm of a historic French town.
L’Alcôve
For an experience that feels like staying with an old friend, L’Alcôve offers a cozy chambre d’hôtes that invites relaxation and reflection. Located just a few minutes from Uzès’ center, this guesthouse offers a tranquil atmosphere with several garden corners perfect for journaling or reading a book. The rooms are warm and welcoming, each decorated with care to maintain the cozy, homely feel. Every morning, guests are treated to a delicious, home-cooked breakfast, often featuring locally-sourced ingredients that showcase the region’s flavors. Whether you're sipping fresh coffee in the garden or enjoying a leisurely breakfast under the shade of the trees, L’Alcôve is the ideal place to slow down, connect with yourself, and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.
How to spend a day in Uzès
1. Saturday Market Mornings
Uzès has one of the best Provençal markets, and in April-May it’s still mostly locals picking up spring greens, strawberries, and wild herbs. Go early (before 10 am) and take your time.
Grab a warm croissant from La Nougatine, pick up a bunch of lilacs or a block of aged goat cheese, and people-watch from the edge of Place aux Herbes.
La Nougatine
Market mornings are the coziest
2. Wisteria Walks
Wisteria Season in Uzès
Wisteria season in Uzès is nothing short of magical, transforming the town into a dreamscape of cascading purple flowers. As you stroll through the narrow streets, you’ll find delicate wisteria vines draping over café doors, trailing along alleyways, and hanging gracefully from balconies. The soft purple hue of the flowers creates a romantic, almost otherworldly atmosphere, and the scent is intoxicating—fresh, floral, and so much better than any candle you could burn at home. It’s the kind of fragrance that lingers in the air, adding to the charm and tranquility of the town.
Rue Saint-Théodorit
For an easy and beautiful walk, take a loop through some of the town’s most picturesque streets. Start on Rue du Dr Blanchard, where the wisteria seems to float above you as you walk along. From there, make your way to Rue du 4 Septembre, another lovely street where the flowers appear like natural curtains framing the old stone buildings. Finally, head toward Rue Saint-Théodorit, which leads you past even more wisteria-covered corners, creating an enchanting scene at every turn. The beauty of this route is that it’s a simple loop, perfect for a leisurely walk, and every step feels like it’s straight out of a fairytale.
For the most magical experience, aim to go either mid-morning when the town is just waking up, or just before golden hour, when the sunlight dances on the flowers and creates a soft glow around the town. These moments are perfect for savoring the beauty, soaking in the fragrances, and capturing the peacefulness that makes Uzès so special.
3. Lunch
Ma Cantine
Our pick? La Table d’Uzès (Michelin-starred but still relaxed) or Ma Cantine for something more casual but seasonal. In spring, menus shift to include dishes with wild garlic, fresh asparagus, and local lamb.
Don’t skip dessert. The strawberries are serious here.
4. Walk to the Eure Valley
If you need a real leg stretch (but still want it peaceful), take the chemin des Capitelles from town to the Vallée de l’Eure. It’s about a 20-minute walk down through the old Roman aqueduct trail. You’ll find wild thyme, mossy walls, and benches where you can just sit and think.
Locals walk their dogs here. That’s the energy.
chemin des Capitelles
5. Evening Wine on the Steps
One of the best things you can do in Uzès? Grab a glass of local rosé or a bottle of something crisp from the Duché d’Uzès appellation and sit on the steps of Place du Duché at sunset.
People stroll by. Kids ride bikes. The air cools down and smells like warm stone and blooming herbs. It’s a small ritual that makes you feel at home.
What to Pack for a Spring Escape in Uzès
Layers (mornings and evenings are cool)
A straw bag for market hauls
Comfy walking shoes for cobblestones
A small notebook (you’ll want to write here)
Allergy meds if you’re sensitive to blooms (Uzès in April is perfumed with pollen)
FAQ: Uzès, France in Spring
Is Uzès worth visiting in April?
Absolutely. Flowers are blooming, crowds are minimal, and the weather is just warm enough for patio lunches.
How long should I stay in Uzès?
2-4 nights is ideal. Long enough to reset, short enough to leave you wanting more.
Can I visit without speaking French?
Yes! Locals are kind and used to visitors. A few phrases go a long way (and Google Translate helps).
Is it safe for solo travelers?
Yes. Uzès is calm, walkable, and has a very relaxed vibe that’s ideal for solo slow travel.
Are there any day trips from Uzès?
You can easily visit Pont du Gard, Nîmes, or the Camargue wetlands if you want a little adventure.
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