Spring in Uzès, France: Slow Living, Markets & Wisteria Walks
If you’re headed to Provence in spring but would rather skip the crowds in Gordes or the Instagram queues in front of lavender shops, go to Uzès.
Tucked between Nîmes and Avignon, this small medieval town feels like stepping into the France you imagined but rarely find in peak season. Pale limestone buildings with sun-faded shutters line quiet streets. Wisteria spills over café awnings like it has all the time in the world. The air smells faintly of lilac, wild thyme, and whatever’s baking in the nearest boulangerie.
In spring, Uzès is in that sweet spot before summer tourism hits - awake but not rushed. Locals lean out of upstairs windows to shake out laundry. The Place aux Herbes fills with the season’s first strawberries, bundles of fresh asparagus, and the scent of chèvre from nearby goat farms. Cafés start putting out extra chairs in the sunshine, and you can linger over a coffee without feeling like someone’s waiting for your table.
It’s also a perfect base for slow travel. From here, you can explore nearby vineyards in the Duché d’Uzès wine region, walk Roman aqueduct trails, or simply spend your days weaving between market stalls and cobblestone lanes. If your idea of a holiday is a deep breath and a slower rhythm, Uzès is exactly the pace you’re looking for.
Getting to Uzès in Spring
You don’t need a car - but if you want to poke around the countryside, visit neighboring villages, or make spontaneous wine stops, renting one will give you freedom.
By car: Fly into Nîmes or Montpellier, rent a car, and you’ll be in Uzès in 45–60 minutes. The drive itself feels like a preview of your trip: rows of olive trees, pockets of vineyard, and small stone hamlets where you’ll want to pull over just to take a photo.
By public transport: From Nîmes or Avignon, take a train to the main station, then catch the B21 regional bus to Uzès. The bus stops right at the edge of the historic center, making it surprisingly easy to arrive without a car - and far less stressful than navigating Provençal parking in high season.
Local Tip: If you’re arriving by bus, sit on the right-hand side. As you approach, you’ll catch a stunning view of the Duché’s tower rising above terracotta rooftops, framed by the surrounding hills. It’s a moment that feels like the official start of your trip.
Where to Stay in Uzès: Courtyards, Shutters & Bell Towers
You want charm, walkability, and ideally, a courtyard with lemon trees or a view of a bell tower. A few beautiful options:
La Maison d’Uzès
La Maison d’Uzès
Nestled in the heart of Uzès, La Maison d’Uzès offers the perfect blend of modern luxury and historic charm. This boutique hotel is housed in a beautifully restored building and features a serene spa, ideal for unwinding after a day of exploring the town’s cobblestone streets. The real highlight of this place is the stunning rooftop terrace, where guests can enjoy panoramic views of Uzès, with its iconic bell tower and surrounding landscapes. Whether you're enjoying a glass of local wine or simply soaking in the atmosphere, the views are sure to make your stay unforgettable. The hotel’s central location means you’re only a few steps away from the historic center, where local markets, charming cafés, and artisan shops are lined up for you to explore.
Les Toits d’Uzès (Airbnb)
For those seeking a more intimate, home-like stay, Les Toits d’Uzès is a beautifully restored Airbnb apartment that feels like a true home away from home. The apartment boasts original tile floors that give it an authentic, rustic charm, while the private terrace offers a peaceful spot to relax and take in the surroundings. With its cozy ambiance, it’s perfect for solo travelers or couples who want a quiet retreat with a personal touch. Imagine waking up to the sound of birds chirping and the warm Mediterranean breeze, enjoying breakfast on your terrace surrounded by the beauty of the town. Located just a short walk from Uzès’ central attractions, Les Toits d’Uzès combines the best of both worlds: the comfort of a private apartment with the charm of a historic French town.
L’Alcôve
For an experience that feels like staying with an old friend, L’Alcôve offers a cozy chambre d’hôtes that invites relaxation and reflection. Located just a few minutes from Uzès’ center, this guesthouse offers a tranquil atmosphere with several garden corners perfect for journaling or reading a book. The rooms are warm and welcoming, each decorated with care to maintain the cozy, homely feel. Every morning, guests are treated to a delicious, home-cooked breakfast, often featuring locally-sourced ingredients that showcase the region’s flavors. Absolute dream.
How to spend a day in Uzès
1. Saturday Market Mornings
Uzès has one of the best Provençal markets, and in April-May it’s still mostly locals picking up spring greens, strawberries, and wild herbs. Go early (before 10 am) and take your time.
Grab a warm croissant from La Nougatine, pick up a bunch of lilacs or a block of aged goat cheese, and people-watch from the edge of Place aux Herbes.
La Nougatine
Market mornings are the coziest
2. Wisteria Walks
Wisteria Season in Uzès
Wisteria season in Uzès is nothing short of magical, transforming the town into a dreamscape of cascading purple flowers. As you stroll through the narrow streets, you’ll find delicate wisteria vines draping over café doors, trailing along alleyways, and hanging gracefully from balconies. The soft purple hue of the flowers creates a romantic, almost otherworldly atmosphere, and the scent is intoxicating - fresh, floral, and so much better than any candle you could burn at home. It’s the kind of fragrance that lingers in the air, adding to the charm and tranquility of the town.
For an easy and beautiful walk, take a loop through some of the town’s most picturesque streets. Start on Rue du Dr Blanchard, where the wisteria seems to float above you as you walk along. From there, make your way to Rue du 4 Septembre, another lovely street where the flowers appear like natural curtains framing the old stone buildings. Finally, head toward Rue Saint-Théodorit, which leads you past even more wisteria-covered corners, creating an enchanting scene at every turn. The beauty of this route is that it’s a simple loop, perfect for a cozy walk, and every step feels like it’s straight out of a fairytale. It truly does.
For the most magical experience, aim to go either mid-morning when the town is just waking up, or just before golden hour, when the sunlight dances on the flowers and creates a soft glow around the town. These moments are perfect for savoring the beauty, soaking in the fragrances, and capturing the peacefulness that makes Uzès so special.
3. Long, Seasonal Lunches
Lunch in Uzès is a slow affair, especially in spring when menus are all about what’s fresh from the market.
If you’re in the mood to linger, book a table at La Table d’Uzès. Despite its Michelin star, it’s not pretentious - think wild garlic velouté, lamb roasted with garden herbs, or asparagus dressed simply in olive oil from nearby groves. The wine list highlights the Duché d’Uzès AOP, a local appellation worth getting to know.
For something casual but still seasonal, Ma Cantine is a favorite. Wooden tables spill into the street, and the menu changes almost daily based on what the chef found at the market that morning. The salads here are generous and vibrant: perfect with a chilled glass of rosé.
Local Tip: In spring, strawberries are everywhere, but order them fraisier-style if you can - layered with sponge and cream. Yummy!
Rue Saint-Théodorit
Ma Cantine
4. The Chemin des Capitelles to Vallée de l’Eure
After lunch, stretch your legs with a walk to the Vallée de l’Eure. The route starts right from town along the Chemin des Capitelles, following part of the old Roman aqueduct trail. It’s an easy 20-minute walk downhill, lined with low dry-stone walls, wild thyme, and the occasional tiny stone hut (capitelle) once used by shepherds.
At the valley’s heart, you’ll find ancient plane trees shading grassy banks - perfect for reading, or just lying back and listening to the river. If you keep walking, you can spot remnants of the aqueduct that once carried water to Nîmes.
5. Evening Wine on the Steps
As the day fades, pick up a bottle from Le Jardin des Vins or one of the small wine shops and head to Place du Duché. The stone steps in front of the Duché’s tower are a local gathering point, and from here you can watch the town soften into evening.
Kids zig-zag past on bikes, neighbors stop for a chat, and the last warmth of the day clings to the stone. A glass of local rosé, the sound of distant church bells, and the scent of herbs in the air… it’s the perfect full stop to your day.
chemin des Capitelles
Beyond a Day: Extra Things to Do in Uzès
If you’re staying in Uzès for more than a night, you’ve got the luxury of exploring at an even slower pace - and maybe wandering beyond the town walls. Here’s where to go when you’ve seen the Saturday market, walked the wisteria loop, and claimed your favorite café table.
The Pont du Gard
A short 20-minute drive from Uzès (or a scenic bike ride if you’re feeling energetic) takes you to the Pont du Gard, a UNESCO-listed Roman aqueduct that’s over 2,000 years old. In spring, before the summer crowds, you can walk along the top tier or picnic by the riverbanks without jostling for space.
Bring a baguette, cheese, and fruit from the market and make it a proper Provençal lunch spot. The water is clear and shallow here: perfect for dipping your feet on a warm day.
Wine Tasting in the Duché d’Uzès Region
The surrounding countryside is home to the Duché d’Uzès AOP, a small but growing wine appellation known for elegant reds, crisp whites, and aromatic rosés. Many vineyards welcome drop-in visitors for tastings, but it’s worth calling ahead if you want a tour.
Two favorites:
Domaine Deleuze-Rochetin – Organic, family-run, with a warm welcome and a focus on terroir-driven wines.
Domaine Saint-Firmin – Just outside town, easy to reach even without a car, and known for its beautifully balanced rosé.
The Haribo Museum
Yes, that Haribo! The gummy bear people. It’s not just for kids; this quirky museum celebrates candy-making history and has interactive exhibits on how sweets are produced. You’ll also find the world’s largest Haribo shop at the end, where you can buy flavors you won’t find anywhere else. It’s about a 15-minute walk from the town center.
The Medieval Garden (Le Jardin Médiéval d’Uzès)
Tucked behind the cathedral, this small garden is a quiet retreat filled with medicinal and aromatic plants once used by monks. Climb the tower inside the garden for one of the best (and least crowded) views over Uzès. In spring, the lavender and rosemary are just waking up, filling the air with that unmistakable Provence scent.
Evening Concerts and Cultural Events
Uzès has a surprisingly rich cultural calendar for a small town. In spring, you might catch an early-season classical concert at the cathedral or a small photography exhibition in one of the galleries off the main square. Keep an eye on posters around town - that’s how locals find out what’s on.
FAQ: Planning a Spring Trip to Uzès, France
Is Uzès worth visiting in spring?
Yes! Spring is one of the best times to visit Uzès. The Saturday market is in full swing but not overcrowded, wisteria and lilac are blooming across the old stone streets, and the weather is warm without the intense summer heat. You can explore the town’s squares, cafés, and surrounding countryside at a relaxed pace before high season begins.
What is Uzès famous for?
Uzès is best known for its beautifully preserved medieval center, the Duché d’Uzès castle, and its vibrant Provençal markets. It’s also near the UNESCO-listed Pont du Gard and surrounded by the Duché d’Uzès wine region. In spring, the town is especially famous for its wisteria-covered lanes and seasonal produce like gariguette strawberries and asparagus.
Do you need a car to visit Uzès?
You can visit Uzès without a car. Regional buses connect the town to Nîmes and Avignon - but having a car makes it easier to explore surrounding vineyards, hilltop villages, and the Pont du Gard. The historic center is fully walkable, so you won’t need a car once you’re in town.
What day is the Uzès market?
Uzès’ main market takes place every Saturday in Place aux Herbes. It’s one of the most popular markets in Provence, offering seasonal produce, cheeses, flowers, spices, and artisan goods. A smaller market runs on Wednesday mornings, mainly for fresh food shopping.
How many days do you need in Uzès?
Two to three days is ideal. One day lets you explore the market, historic streets, and the Vallée de l’Eure, but with an extra day or two, you can visit the Pont du Gard, go wine tasting in the Duché d’Uzès AOP, or take day trips to nearby Nîmes and Avignon.
What are the best things to do near Uzès?
Popular day trips from Uzès include visiting the Pont du Gard, wine tasting at local vineyards, exploring the hilltop village of Lussan, or touring Nîmes’ Roman amphitheatre. For something quirky, the Haribo Museum is just a short walk from the town center.
When is wisteria season in Uzès?
Wisteria typically blooms in Uzès from mid-April to early May, depending on the weather. During this time, the old streets are covered in purple blossoms, especially along Rue du Dr Blanchard, Rue du 4 Septembre, and Rue Saint-Théodorit.
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