Skip Amalfi: Why the Cilento Coast Is Italy’s Best-Kept Secret

Amalfi will always have its beauty, but by July it’s hard to ignore the reality: buses inching along cliffside roads, tour groups spilling into piazzas, and queues for photos that should have been spontaneous. For many, it feels less like Italy and more like a performance of it.

Keep driving south past Salerno, though, and the energy shifts. The traffic thins, the coastline softens, and before long you’re in the Cilento Coast - a quieter stretch of Campania that stretches from the ancient ruins of Paestum to the Gulf of Policastro. Here, life moves at a different pace.

In Cilento, mornings begin with fishermen bringing in their catch and old men setting up chairs in the shade to play cards. You’ll still find cliffs, pastel-painted villages, and that Mediterranean-blue water, but without the soundtrack of selfie sticks clicking or guides waving flags. Beaches are wide and often half-empty, with space to spread out and stay as long as you like. The hillsides are dotted with lemon groves and olive trees, and in the evenings the smell of grilled fish drifts through the lanes as families gather for long dinners.

The best part? Nothing feels curated for you. Restaurants serve what’s fresh, not what’s fashionable. The pace of the day is set by the locals, not timetables. People will happily chat with you at the market or help with directions, but they’re not putting on a show - they’re just going about their lives, and you’re welcome to slip into that slow pace.

The Cilento Coast is what many hope to find in Amalfi but rarely do anymore: space to breathe, conversations that feel real, and landscapes that are still dramatic without being overrun. It’s the kind of place where you’re reminded that slowing down isn’t a luxury: It’s the natural way of being here.

Cilento

Where to Stay on the Cilento Coast: Villages With Real Character

One of the joys of the Cilento Coast is that there are no big resort complexes or anonymous hotels. Staying here feels like being folded into the life of a village - breakfast from the bakery down the street, linen drying on balconies above you, neighbors chatting in the square at dusk. Choosing where to base yourself is less about checking off sights and more about deciding what kind of rhythm you want for your days.

Acciaroli: A Seaside Town Hemingway Would Recognize

Acciaroli is small enough to feel instantly familiar. The port is lined with fishing boats, the kind that actually go out every morning and return with anchovies, which you’ll probably see again on your plate at dinner. The sandy beach stretches long and quiet, perfect for morning swims before the town fully wakes up. By evening, trattorias open along the water: simple places where the menu depends on the day’s catch. Locals say Hemingway once stayed here, and whether the stories are true or not, it’s easy to see why he’d linger. The pace makes you want to do the same.

Santa Maria di Castellabate: A Balance of Life and Stillness

If you’d like a bit more going on without losing that slower rhythm, Santa Maria di Castellabate is a good middle ground. The piazza is small but lively, especially in the evenings when families come out for a stroll, kids race through the alleys, and the older crowd settles into card games over espresso. The guesthouses here are usually family-run, with owners who greet you like you’re an old friend and might offer you a slice of homemade cake at breakfast. It’s the kind of town where you’ll start recognizing the same faces after a day or two, which makes it feel less like a getaway and more like a temporary neighborhood.

Marina di Pisciotta: For Travelers Who Crave Quiet

Marina di Pisciotta feels almost untouched by time. There’s a tiny dock where fishing boats come and go, and beyond that, just a handful of places to eat or stay. Days here slip by easily! Swimming in the morning, reading in the shade during the heat of the day, fresh seafood in the evening. It’s simple, stripped back, and maybe not for everyone, but if your idea of a holiday is letting the hours drift without an agenda, this is where you’ll find it.

Wherever you choose, part of Cilento’s charm is that you don’t need to fill your days to enjoy them. A walk to the bakery, a coffee in the square, a swim, a long dinner - that’s the rhythm here. And it feels more restorative than anything you’d find on a crowded Amalfi terrace.

Acciaroli

Acciaroli

Marina di Pisciotta

Marina di Pisciotta


Best Beaches on the Cilento Coast: Quiet, Scenic, and Unspoiled

One of the biggest surprises about the Cilento Coast is how uncrowded its beaches still feel, even in summer. Unlike the Amalfi Coast, where much of the shoreline is rocky and crowded with beach clubs, Cilento offers long sandy stretches and secluded coves where you can actually hear the waves and not someone else’s playlist. Don’t expect rows of umbrellas or waiters bringing cocktails… these beaches are simpler, more natural, and all the better for it.

Baia degli Infreschi: A Wild Cove You’ll Want to Stay All Day

Baia degli Infreschi

Baia degli Infreschi

Reaching Baia degli Infreschi takes a bit of effort (either a short boat ride from Marina di Camerota or a hike along the coastal path), but that’s what keeps it special. When you arrive, you’ll see a small crescent of sand framed by rugged cliffs and impossibly clear water. There are no cafés, no beach loungers, just sea and rock and sky. It feels wild in the best way, like a place you stumbled upon by accident. Bring a picnic and plenty of water, because once you’re here you won’t want to leave anytime soon.

Spiaggia del Pozzallo: Shade, Sand, and Simplicity

If you prefer something a little easier to reach, Spiaggia del Pozzallo is a gentle walk from Marina di Camerota and has a relaxed, laid-back feel. It’s mostly sandy, with a few shady spots under the pines that make it perfect for spending an entire afternoon. Families often come here, but it never feels overrun - there’s space to spread a towel, read a book, and swim without bumping into anyone. It’s the kind of place where time blurs a little, and that’s exactly the point.

Marina di Camerota: Accessible but Still Relaxed

Marina di Camerota is the liveliest of the three, but it still feels low-key compared to Amalfi. Here you’ll find a proper town atmosphere, with restaurants and cafés just a short stroll from the beach. The water is calm, the sand is soft, and it’s easy to spend a full day without needing to plan ahead. This is the best option if you want convenience without giving up the relaxed, unhurried mood that defines the Cilento Coast.


Tip: Bring your own towel, water, and maybe a sandwich from the local panetteria to the beach!


Where to Eat on the Cilento Coast: Seafood, Mozzarella & Meals That Linger

Food in Cilento doesn’t try to impress you with fancy plating or long menus. It’s seasonal, local, and often as simple as whatever came off the fishing boats that morning. Anchovies, clams, and squid are everywhere, mozzarella di bufala is made just inland, and the vegetables taste like they were picked from someone’s garden a few hours before. Meals stretch out naturally here, and nobody’s rushing you to leave. Often the owners will come by your table just to chat or suggest a glass of wine that pairs with the dish.

Lo Sparviero, Pioppi: Dinner by the Sea

In Pioppi, Lo Sparviero is the kind of trattoria where the sound of waves is the background music. Sit outside if you can and order whatever seafood pasta is on special that day. The portions are generous, the flavors are straightforward, and the desserts (often a house tiramisù or panna cotta) taste like they were made by someone’s grandmother. It’s not fine dining, and that’s exactly why it works.

Ristorante Da Carmelo, Santa Maria di Castellabate: Old-School Charm

Santa Maria di Castellabate has a handful of excellent places to eat, but Da Carmelo is a local institution. The menu hasn’t changed much in years, and you get the sense that nobody wants it to. Think grilled fish with olive oil, pasta alle vongole (with clams), and a terrace that looks directly out to sea. Order a carafe of the house white, which is always crisp and local, and plan to linger as the evening light softens across the bay.

Agriturismo San Giorgio, Casal Velino: A Meal That Feels Like Home

Head inland for a different kind of dining experience at Agriturismo San Giorgio. This is a family-run farm where almost everything on your plate is grown or raised on site. Expect long, leisurely meals where dishes come out one after the other: homemade pasta, vegetables from the garden, local meats, and desserts made with seasonal fruit. It’s the kind of lunch that turns into an afternoon, and you’ll leave not just full but also with a sense of having been welcomed into someone’s home.

Agriturismo San Giorgio (Casal Velino)

Agriturismo San Giorgio

Agriturismo San Giorgio (Casal Velino)

Agriturismo San Giorgio


💡 Local tip: In Cilento, menus are often short and written on chalkboards. Don’t be surprised if the waiter simply tells you what’s available - it usually depends on the season and the sea. Trust the recommendations, especially when it comes to seafood, and always try the house wine.



Things to Do on the Cilento Coast: Walks, Villages & Quiet Views

One of the best things about the Cilento Coast is how much open space there still is. While Amalfi is crowded with coaches and well-trodden paths, here you can set out on a trail and feel like you’ve stumbled into a quieter Italy. The Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park stretches inland from the coast, so you’ve got olive groves, pine forests, and quiet ridges with sea views - all without the crowds.

Sentiero del Mediterraneo: Coastal Views at Their Best

This trail connects a string of small coastal villages and is perfect for a morning hike before the sun gets too strong. Parts of it wind through olive groves, others skirt the cliffs with the Tyrrhenian Sea stretching out below. You’ll pass through villages where cats nap in doorways and the only shop is a tiny alimentari selling bread and olives. It’s not difficult, and you can stop whenever you like… maybe for a swim if you drop down to one of the coves along the way.

Velia: Ancient Ruins Without the Crowds

For something a little different, head inland to Velia, the remains of an ancient Greek city. Unlike Paestum, which gets more visitors, Velia is usually quiet enough that you’ll hear cicadas more than other travelers. The ruins are scattered across a hillside: an acropolis, old city walls, and stone streets that still hint at the life that once thrived here. There’s no rush to see it all; you can wander slowly, sit in the shade, and imagine what it must have been like centuries ago.

Hilltop Villages with Endless Views

Cilento is full of tiny hilltop towns that feel worlds away from the coast. Even just a short drive inland brings you to places where the air cools, the views stretch for miles, and life seems even slower. Villages like Castellabate or Pisciotta are especially worth a stop. Expect cobbled alleys, small piazzas where old men play cards, and viewpoints where you can sit with a gelato or a notebook and take in the quiet. These aren’t places designed for tourists - they’re lived-in, which is what makes them so refreshing.


Getting to the Cilento Coast: Trains, Buses & Car Rentals

The easiest way to reach Cilento is by train from Naples to Agropoli or Vallo della Lucania, followed by a local bus or rental car. Renting a car gives you more freedom to explore the coastline and the hill villages, but if you’re staying in one town and taking it slow, it’s doable without.

Naples is the nearest major airport, and from there it’s about a 2-3 hour journey total. And yes - the trip is worth it.

Cilento

Who the Cilento Coast Is For (And Who It’s Not)

If you want high-end beach clubs, designer shops, and a packed social scene, this probably isn’t your place. Cilento is for people who’d rather take a quiet trail than queue up for a photo, who appreciate a glass of local wine at a family-run restaurant, and who feel happiest with a long dinner, a slow walk home, and a good night’s sleep.

Cilento is especially good for solo travelers. It’s safe, laid-back, and easy to navigate — most towns and villages are small enough that you’ll recognize the same friendly faces after a day or two. Sit on a piazza with a coffee, hike a coastal path in the morning, and chat to locals at the market - you’ll rarely feel out of place. And if you do go for dinner alone, don’t be surprised if the owners come over for a chat or send an extra taste of dessert your way.

This is also a great destination if you want to take a train and explore at your own pace. The regional line that runs along the coast from Salerno is simple and affordable. Jump off at Castellabate or Pisciotta for a wander, then hop back on to see the next village. Or catch a local bus up into the hills for sweeping views and trails through pine forests.

Ultimately, Cilento is for people who appreciate a more grounded kind of travel - one where you can leave your phone in your bag, take your time deciding what to do next, and come home feeling a little lighter, clearer, and more like yourself.


More Slow European Escapes You Might Love

If the Cilento Coast speaks to you (quiet beaches, local food, and no pressure to rush) you might enjoy exploring a few other places that carry the same slow-travel spirit:


FAQ: Cilento Coast Travel Guide

Where exactly is the Cilento Coast?
The Cilento Coast is in southern Campania, Italy, just south of the Amalfi Coast. It stretches from Paestum to the Gulf of Policastro and sits inside the Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park.

How is the Cilento Coast different from the Amalfi Coast?
Amalfi is famous for its dramatic cliffs and colorful villages, but it’s also crowded and expensive in summer. Cilento offers the same cinematic landscapes — cliffs, coves, pastel houses — but without the tourist crush. It feels more authentic, more affordable, and shaped by locals rather than mass tourism.

When is the best time to visit the Cilento Coast?
June and September are ideal. You’ll get warm seas for swimming, long days, and fewer crowds compared to July and August. Spring (April–May) is also beautiful, with wildflowers and cooler hiking weather.

Do I need a car in Cilento?
It depends on your style of travel. If you’re happy to stay in one village and relax, you can manage with trains and local buses. But if you want to explore beaches, hilltop towns, and coastal trails at your own pace, renting a car from Naples or Salerno makes things much easier.

Where should I stay on the Cilento Coast?
It depends on the vibe you’re after:

  • Acciaroli for romance and old-world charm.

  • Santa Maria di Castellabate for a balance of life and quiet.

  • Marina di Pisciotta for a real off-the-grid, slow-travel retreat.

Is the Cilento Coast good for solo travel?
Yes. It’s safe, laid-back, and easy to navigate. The villages are small enough that you’ll start to see familiar faces after a day or two, and locals are welcoming without being pushy. It’s one of the best coastal destinations in Italy for travelers who want space to think, write, or just rest.

Can I swim on the Cilento Coast?
Absolutely. The beaches here are less crowded than Amalfi and often more natural. Some are sandy (like Acciaroli and Marina di Camerota), while others are rocky coves (like Baia degli Infreschi). Bring a towel and some snacks! Many of the best spots don’t have beach clubs or facilities.

What food is Cilento famous for?
Fresh seafood, mozzarella di bufala, anchovies, tomatoes, and lemons are everywhere. You’ll also find local olive oil, homemade pasta, and plenty of simple trattoria meals that let the ingredients shine.

Is the Cilento Coast worth visiting in 2025?
Definitely. While Amalfi continues to draw crowds, Cilento remains under the radar. It’s authentic, affordable, and full of the kind of slow, grounding travel moments that are getting harder to find in Italy.


Previous
Previous

A Slow Travel Guide to Athens in Spring: Quiet Spots, Culture & Cozy Cafés

Next
Next

4 Quiet Spring Getaways in Europe for Travelers Who Don’t Like Crowds